Vintage Chanel Highlight

A friend of my called and asked me some advice about a Chanel purse she purchased. While we had a lengthy discussion over the purse I was suddenly in the mood for some more Chanel. Who isn't? Shown above is a 1920s Chanel ad featuring Coco Chanel herself.

Coco Chanel took an early rise in the fashion world. She stayed on top of the fashion world even beyond her physical years. She is a true fashion courtier to remember. How can you forget more like? The dress shown above is an early Chanel gown. It is a flapper dress from the 1920s.

 I found this awesome site with former Chanel Ads. Why is it so special? Its a 1930s ad featuring Coco herself! Yes she has been in plenty of  ads prior to this but; I just really like this one.

 

This is a stunning 1937 white lace Chanel numbered couture evening gown. What a gorgeous piece. I can see gowns from the 1970s mimicking this piece and even some repeat in today's market. A truly timeless gown.

This is a 1940s Vogue cover shot. The cover  is featuring a 1940s Chanel suit. Classic utilitarian style suit during WWII times. Most garments were minimal due to war time rations and shortages. Note how gorgeous the suit is and how well put together the model looks during time of war!

This is a 1950s Chanel Ad. It features a two piece suit. What looks to be silk trimmed with a tweed or wool of sort. Note the use of chain as a belt and necklace. Little has changed over the years with the use of chain. When I think of Chanel today I think of something similar to this set.

 

This is a vintage Chanel triple strand chain necklace. The "CC" logo scattered thru out as embellishments.

 

1960s photo of Coco working her magic! Wow could you image being the one in that suit while Chanel works her magic around you? OH so lucky!

This is also a 1960s photo. It is a panel of women wearing Chanel garments. Such lucky ladies! Chanel has a vision for her line and today 80 years later stands true to that vision. Truly remarkable and a truly timeless!

Here are two vintage suits I found while searching the Internet. The suit on the left is a 1960s Chanel Haute Couture. This suit retails for 2,750 Euro. The suit on the right is from the 1970s Chanel Haute Couture. It is a two piece skirt suit. This suit sells for 4,950 Euro. Oh I so wish! But, if you are lucky enough check 'em out at vintageacademe.com

1980s Chanel Skirt Suit. A definite power suit of the 80s.

Thanks for riding along with me on my quick trip of Chanel highlights. I was just feeling like a little Coco Chanel today.  My glass is raised to you Coco!

Coco herself on the beach in the 1930s.

Photos: 1. katyawk.com 2. fitnyc.edu 3. styleite.com 4. vintagetextile.com 5. rdujour.com 6. chanelglamour.com 7. frugal-cafe.com 8. childrensalon.blogspot.com 9. childrensalon.blogspot.com 10. vintageacademe.com 11. vintageacademe.com 12. retrodress.com 13. jamesstuartduncan.com

Charles Frederick Worth

We mentioned earlier Charles Frederick Worth. He was the first real fashion designer. Up until his time most garments were merely tailored and fitted to the clients request. Worth actually designed and made couture clothing by his own design. In other words the first to design and not tailor.

Charles Frederick Worth is considered the Father of Haute Couture. Though Worth is an English Designer in start. He later relocated to Paris. For some that may not know. Fashion not produced in Paris can not be considered Haute Couture.

Once Worth arrived in Paris he started working for a famous Parisian draper. While working in this shop he married the shops' model. After becoming married began making simple dresses for his wife. These simple dresses were well noticed and he often received requests for reproductions by shop clients.

Worth now being a business partner in the drapping firm. He urged his partners to expand the company and begin to make dresses. The partners in the firm denied the request.  Worth later left the firm and found a wealthy investor. The investor helped Worth and he started his first firm known as Worth and Bobergh.

Soon after the opening of his firm he was commissioned by French Empress Eugenie. Before long, many of the rich and famous traveled to Worth from other countries. They traveled to have dresses made by the now famous Charles Frederick Worth.

Charles Frederick Worth had a hugely successful career by any standard. I love his pioneering ideas into what really became the beginning of modern day fashion as we know it. After his passing he left the House of Worth to his sons. His sons who also continued to flourish; bringing the company even farther into success.

Late Victorian Period

The Late Victorian Period dates from the 1880s to 1901. In this time dresses change drastically. The princess cut dress replaces silhouettes of the past. The princess cut dress had no waist seam and was a long looking bodice around mid thigh. Sometimes longer. These dresses also had long trains.

This dress really required a steady and skillful hand. Many times due to lack of skills by the tailor and or designer pieces were added along the bottom and around the dress to cover up the mistakes made. This dress looked best on a tall thin woman so this style only lasted a few short years.

In 1883 the bustle returns!  This time the bustle had a very different look to them. The rear of the dress was essentially a shelf.  A few years later heavy corsetting becomes the ultimate glamour. The dress sleeves are still tight and form fitting.

By the 1890s the Victorian Dress becomes similar to a power suit in today's world. The bodice was a tight form fitting jacket. Sleeves do begin to develop more. This time in fashion women begin to show "masculine" strength in clothing.

courtesy of mintmuseum.org

During the 1890s dresses become more of an S shape silhouette. Skirts become wider. Corsets are less extreme and bustles begin to diminish. This takes us into the Edwardian period.  Which we will talk about tomorrow.

*all photos are courtesy of cwrl.utexas.edu

Late Mid Victorian Period

Again the Mid Victorian Period is from the late 1850s to the 1880s. In this segment we are going to talk about the years of 1866 to 1880.  By the 1870s the bustle was being worn towards the back of the dress. Elaborate petticoats with pleats, folds and tiers were needed to make the skirt look as full as possible. With heavy draping and tape being used to hold the top layer and bustle into place. Wow could you only imagine the weight of the garment with no air conditioning!

Day dresses also were such dresses as walking dresses. These dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped. Sleeves of day dresses were narrow throughout the period, with a tendency to flare slightly at the wrist early on. Women often draped over skirts to produce an apron like effect from the front.

Evening dresses had low necklines and very short, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and were worn with short (later mid-length) gloves. Other characteristic fashions included a velvet ribbon tied high around the neck and trailing behind for evening (the origin of the modern choker necklace).

Anti-fashionist and non-supporters of such fashion like the bustle preferred what is commonly known as the tea dress.

Leisure dress was becoming an important part of a women's wardrobe. Seaside dress in England had its own distinct characteristics but still followed the regular fashions of the day. Seaside dress was seen as more daring, frivolous, eccentric, and brighter. Even though the bustle was extremely cumbersome, it was still a part of seaside fashion.

photos courtesy of reviews.ebay.com

Hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in a high knot or cluster of ringlets, often with a fringe (bangs) over the forehead. False hair was commonly used. Bonnets were smaller to allow for the elaborately piled hairstyles and resembled hats except for their ribbons tied under the chin. Smallish hats, some with veils, were perched on top of the head, and brimmed straw hats were worn for outdoor wear in summer.

photos courtesy of  www.cwrl.utexas.edu
some text and most information from www.wikipedia.com

Early Mid Victorian Fashion

Mid Victorian Fashion Dates from the late 1850s to 1880s. We are discussing the early Mid years from 1857 to 1865. Fashion changes drastically during the Mid Victorian period so I have broken it down into two segments. This way we will get to view more beautiful photos!

courtesy of metmuseum.org

In the Early-Mid Period dresses became more and more daring in their pattern and color. During these years women wore both dark and light shades of color such as silvery grays, lavender and magenta. These are just a few among the many popular colors worn. We also find plaids in women's wear begin to emerge.

 Popular fabrics included: silk, taffeta, cashmere, muslin, tulle, mink, seal, beaver and countless other fabrics.

               (left) courtesy of blog.historicalfashions.com                    

(right) courtesy of fashionismymuse.blogspot.com

Corsets with lacing in the back are introduced. The steel cage crinoline was introduced in 1856. On top a petticoat was worn with an elaborate design at the hem.

courtesy of uhist.com

Skirts were made fuller by using more tiers which are commonly known as flounce.  Hooks and eyes are now introduced into fashion. 

Dresses for day typically had what is called a Fan Front. Which has a typical tight narrow waist. A wider bell shape sleeve does starts to appear toward the early 1860s.

courtesy of metmuseum.org

Evening dresses were very low-necked, falling off the shoulders, and had short sleeves.

courtesy of www.osu.edu

In the Mid Victorian period we start to see white gloves and colored hosiery. The Indian Shaw becomes another fashionable garment. Hair styles become much simpler. It becomes a simple part down the middle with a bun or braid in the back.  Earrings go from simple dangles to tassel-like in form.

courtesy of yourwardrobeunlockd.wordpress.com

Tomorrow we will discuss dresses from the Late-Mid Victorian period and the bustle.

Early Victorian Fashion

photo courtesy of  www.thepelisse.blogspot.com

 Early Victorian fashion dates from 1837 to late 1856. In this time women's fashion was very modest.

Dresses from this period include:

Narrow shoulders and bodice.

Very small waists.

Exceptionally full skirts in the hip.

Hoops needed to support the petticoats and fullness of the skirt.

Long skirts completely covering the body.

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The goal of dresses from this time period were to give the appearance of a weak and dainty upper body with extremely full hips and large lower body.

photo courtesy of www.timelytresses.com

Deep set bonnets were worn to hide the face and neck of the wearer. Mostly commonly  the face of the wearer was only seen when they looked directly at you.

courtesy of www.cwrl.utexas.edu

Evening gowns covered literally every bit of skin minus the face. This is also the first period in time we see protesters against wearing such garments. The protesters were fighting against the health issues the came from wearing such restrictive garments.

Towards the end of Early Victorian fashion going into Mid Victorian fashion fullness of skirts begin to look asymmetrical and full in the back which is commonly referred to as bustle or bustling. Geometric shapes and stripes become more popular in garments.

Popular accessories worn  or used in this period were necklaces, wraps, shawls and parasols. During the early Victorian period earrings went from flat and round to short dangle style.

 Neck ribbons were popular and usually had a cameo place in the front of the neck. Under sleeves were similar to today's layering. It was a shirt that had sleeves that extended out past the dress being worn.

We can't forget the best part! Here are some examples of Early Victorian Handbags and shoes. The handbag is a silver mesh handbag. Many mesh handbags were made of actual gun metal.

 In this period of fashion history we meet the first couture designer. Charles Frederick Worth is the first real fashion designer. Not to be confused with a tailor. Meaning:  he designed gowns from his own inspiration and not from his client telling him how to fit a garment for their needs.